The violent and sudden demise of the Palais Royale was a sad shock to we who blithely imagine Newcastle’s heritage in safe and sympathetic hands.
The Palais’ veins ran deep through our colourful history, rooted in the Roaring Twenties of a bustling coal and steel city.
Palais Royale’s rich and diverse affairs intertwined strongly with lives and times of all but earliest generations of Novocastrians. It’s happenings were talk of the town, touching indelibly our commercial and social history over the city’s second hundred years.
And now, for the ficklest of reasons, it’s gone.
With always a common touch, from beneath a stylishly simple façade, the front doors opened directly onto the street welcoming ordinary people to great times.
And in an unglamorous little coal and manufacturing town, a seaport to the world, the Palais stood proudly, with few peers.
The balanced iconic symmetry of its fascia projected a striking and evocative street presence. Coupled with so charming and glamorous a moniker the "Palais Royale" became, irresistibly, the city’s most famous building and the place to be.
Hunter Street will miss its spacious graceful counterpoise to those encroaching monotonous monoliths blighting the West End.
Within that crude yet allusive exterior, surviving decades of redesign and re-use, delicate frescos adorned stunning coved ceilings astride bold column work, crowning a great hall of expectant and timeless atmosphere.
A huge paned fanlight that might have dominated a grand foyer, instead framed musicians playing to a mezzanine Loft Nightclub, magnet to sixties sophisticates.
This living heart of civic excitement evolved by demand from market, to skating, to dance hall, to night club, to bandstand, to finally a beloved creative sanctuary for our kids during school holidays.
A venue for all seasons, for all citizens.
Come 2008, dilapidation was not the Palais’ fault and sad disuse not its desire.
Strange, after 8 decades of flash floods, how suddenly the Palais succumbed to damp feet from a June ‘07 deluge that also softened Council’s (apparent) resolve and freed the wrecker’s hammer.
Equally strange, too, that with all the empty lots and derelict street frontage in Hunter Street an incomparable heritage building need topple.
The Palais Royale was a unique gift to this city. A treasure sharing aura and mystique with luckier surviving namesakes around the world, representing more gracious times, anchoring the past against styleless modernity of generational change.
Still, I’m sure we’ll be delighted with the Palais Royale’s successor, anticipating with relish the cultural benefit and sense of identity its harsh jagged immensity will bequeath to our communal landscape.
After all, in a land as tiny as ours with such massive population vertical is the only way left to go.
Eyesore
What’s my problem with this old eyesore making way for the future?
Well, I could if pressed nominate many thousands of OTHER structures in Newcastle well ahead of the Palais Royale deserving of a good crushing and where investors might plonk their ugly masonry cubism. It’s not as if we are short of demolition fodder and downright ugly old buildings.
Calling a ruin an eyesore begs only one question: What made it so?
How many buildings in town have been vandalized, not by drunken malevolent hoons or unhappy street people, but by mercenaries on missions to devalue?
A partisan developer labelling ‘derelict’ an obstacle to his project raises only suspicion. But when passers-by agree, then, effectively, it is.
Yet what would either know?
If Civic Theatre, Newcastle Post Office, Fort Scratchley, or T&G building, become eyesores … shall we simply demolish them too, as obstacles to progress and change?
Shall we flatten the city to appease those with no eye for architectural variety and character, who cannot envision the forbidding ghetto this sunny little city will soon become when the Honeysuckle plague works its way down Hunter Street?
That restoring and preserving a shabby Palais presents only a cost to city bean counters and property development demonstrates crude negligence of what truly benefits Newcastle’s long-term viability.
The people reshaping this city are blinded and bewitched by an ethos whose day of discredit looms.
Forces of urban renewal have no architectural or cultural wisdom, any more than laissez faire economics lights the path of human development. They are both mindless vectors driving us to the precipice of survival via the morally and economically bereft "return on investment."
We allow them too much credit and leeway, observing, curious yet assenting, as they cut swathes through our lives "for progress in the common good."

What Passion?
Newcastle’s Palais Royale lapsed ultimately from public apathy, lack of a hero in city hall, or even a benefactor - not simply because times have changed.
But why no protest?
Newcastle is a contrary and perplexing social microcosm: broadminded citizens of a global village yet disconcertingly xenophobic, parochial, even naive, to foreign visitors.
Despite its enormous breadth and depth of imported communal culture, a membership international in scope, our region can be as banal as its suburban sprawl.
Something about "The Shire" lulls us to apathy, dissipates grandness, and attenuates fervour.
Perhaps community spirit - if ever there was - evaporated forever in allegiance to scattered shopping malls that segment and dilute cultural and commercial focus. Exurban big-box stores gnaw away at our local downtown dollars, tempting shoppers into hours-long convoys across town to buy what local Ma & Pa shops already have, just 5c dearer. In nearby Maitland, for example, megastores, once a brisk walk from High Street, now cluster kilometres away in Death Valley west of Rutherford. No car, no shoppee.
It’s the "shopping experience" we crave, not price. Even communal circuses like the once mighty Newcastle Show wilt in the shade of Westfield’s year-round carnivals.
We’re a populace sedated on shopping. The only recent memorable community passion vented 30 years ago when 4000 drunk patrons rioted at the closing of a mere pub. They still debate if it was mindless alcohol-fuelled fury or civil protest.
So we turn instead to local government - such as Wollongong City Council, sacked for a developer-planner bribes scandal - and "leading citizens" to do the right thing by Our Town.
Of all the people with money to spare in our flourishing extravagant little city, none saw the magic potential of this veteran structure or felt the passion to see a great landmark again bloom and flourish.
No New Beauty
That such a famous, shapely, and historic building could vanish so easily, without public whimper, forebodes darkly the fate of lesser yet more ornate and attractive structures, ones that place themselves at great risk by rising only one level
above the street and allow (heaven forbid) sunlight to strike pavement, that falsely believe detailed crafts-built fascia and charismatic street-front ambiance (so passé nowadays), ensure survival in this sudden free-for-all urban knockdown.
As high-rise residential scars the small town character of Hunter Street, so fades an obvious future for this lovely city, to which the ugly money seems congenitally blind.
It’s a free country and investors are permitted to constrain architects to whatever banality their funds permit.
Yet as I view beautiful cities around the world that garner praise and attention, that attract both tourist and resident, I see little despoilment by texturally-curt monoliths such as those sprouting around us, suffocating the space, creating windy canyons of noisy shadow, blunting the intricately embroidered skyline.
Instead I see preservation and renovation of delightful architectural anachronisms, almost as if people actually prefer living spaces to look gracious and delicate, as if they enjoy structures of former times made in creative exultance, a pleasure to behold, a source of civic and personal pride.
Meanwhile, as Newcastle explodes in a frenzy of inelegance driven by apparently unlimited funds, I ask: Why are the new buildings not remotely picturesque, or even feigning attractive, in these times of constructional ease?
Stone the crows, Narelle, even brick veneer triple-fronters in Mayfield sport Greco-Roman columns and the odd concrete Venus de Milo! Must Council hand out gargoyles with each approved Dev-Ap? And what’s with 741 Hunter and Battleship Grey? Pick up a few thousand litres of cheap paint from one of Newcastle’s defunct Naval contractors, did we? But I digress.
Why do we allow those of such small-minded interest to generate impendent ghettos for immediate personal gain - to the long-term detriment of all?
Where is the new Customs House, the new T&G Building, the new .. Palais?
And we ignore, at the city’s peril, those who offer alternatives:
(adaptive re-use) is international best practice, but Newcastle is not doing this enough. By more … development our heritage is being destroyed.
The former ‘Palais Royale’ is a sad reminder of Hunter Street’s more glorious times. Such flexible building structures can easily be converted into exciting new public places, and are just waiting for an appropriate adaptive re-use.
It is now widely accepted that historic heritage places provide important cultural benefits and a sense of identity to the wider community, and therefore deserve continued protection, even if this means restrictions of operation or on development.
With those key elements embedded in an overarching strategy, central Newcastle could be turned into a model of a ‘Sustainable City’. For too long no overarching vision has been in place, and political leadership is needed to tackle those priorities.
* Urban Renewal in Newcastle (Link to PDF document - 5.5MB, lengthy download)
* Steffen Lehmann, University of Newcastle Professor, School of Architecture and Built Environment
Perhaps, as social venues go, Palais Royale was a poor relative from the wrong side of the track masquerading as grand lady - lately in shabby clothes, carrying dark secrets of past indiscretions - yet rich in hidden beauties and memories.
And now? Forever lost.
Farewell, old girl, from we who relish beauty from the past.

And good riddance from the city of barbarians.
Appendix:
Modification of consent for 684 Hunter Street, Newcastle West – old Palais Site
The applicant (Newcastle Palais Holdings Inc) asked Council approval to modify the original terms of consent in respect of the redevelopment of the heritage listing Palais Royale building site.
The original consent was based on retaining the Hunter Street façade as part of the development of an 8-storey mixed commercial/ residential development.
The developer asked for the consent to be modified as investigation has found that the facade is not supported on substantial foundations, and has been adversely affected by the Jun 07 storms.
Council approved the modification on the basis of conditions, including strict adherence to drawings by Span Architects and the Statement of Environmental Effects. The developer will be required to display examples of the 1920s ceramic wall tiling into the commercial area café.
* http://www.ncc.nsw.gov.au » in council » Council meetings » Meeting summaries » Development Applications Committee 19 Feb 08
The site is occupied by the derelict and partially demolished ‘Palais Royale’, a former
retail market and Dance Hall that has until recently been utilised as a youth centre.
The building is listed in the Newcastle LEP 2003 as a heritage item of local
significance and the subject site falls within the Newcastle City Centre Heritage
Conservation Area.
* Report DA 05/0115 opens as PDF document
Court orders halt Newcastle development scheme
Tuesday 13 May 2008
The Supreme Court of New South Wales has ordered the operators of an unregistered managed investment scheme linked to a Newcastle property development to stop promoting or issuing further interests in the scheme following an application by ASIC.
The Court made final orders and declarations by consent against Empower Invest Pty Ltd and Newcastle Palais Holdings Pty Ltd.
* ASIC.gov.au webiste publication
Loving Links
Damien Frost’s invitation card to opening of the Youth Venue. It shows the "Nite Club" sign below the Palais’ neon banner.
ABC Newcastle news piece on Lynn and Carol Carlyle, a Newcastle couple representing the good times.
Toby Duffill’s magnificent rendition of the Palais that properly illustrates its ‘counterpoising’ of those neighbouring monoliths. And the pertinent comment by Denver (US) resident: "I didn’t think Aussies would stand for the destruction of architectural wonders!"
Glory Days - Reliving the Palais is also linked in article above. Bachelor of Comms students Lexie Durbridge and Thomas Hancock made a half hour doco after gathering so much material 10 minutes was way too short.
Lexi, Thomas, please email editor at newcastleonhunter dot com if you wish to share transcript. Love to publish whatever you wish on its own
page with your credits.
Paterson Real Estate ad for ‘Palais Royale Newcastle’ apartments - while it lasts. Snapshot here for posterity.
Lemminstone.com ~ click ‘comments’ for sense of what it’s all about: "a place where I sometimes played in my band … many national as well as international touring bands played here … I guess you could say it is a huge part of Newcastle and I am not the only one who is sad watching it fade away."
‘Eyesore’ Palais Demolition ~ ABC News report: "We actually had the whole place nailed up with steel banding and they could still break through that. You are just in despair, you cannot control them" .. oh, poor diddums.
A last word from Brad:
I fail to understand what all the fuss about the Palais facade is. At the end of the day it is merely outdated brickwork that blends perfectly with the rest of Newcastle West (RUBBISH). I worked at the Palais as a drummer back in the 80s & it is just another room.
The sooner this town & its council move on the better. Hunter Street is a disgrace & an embarrassment to everyone that lives in the Hunter. Memories are one thing, progress is another.Time to move on Newcastle.
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Eleven o’clock departure time was an hour ago, yet Newcastle Harbour lay wide, flat, blue .. and empty.
There was no sign of that injured Panamax freighter about to leave the people of this busy little sea port, to whom it had become so endeared.
A march of waves slapped against rocks, catching our attention: "Perhaps we missed it!" someone chuckled, creating a ripple of giggles.
Another: "Well, if the choppers are circling it, then it must be heading upstream towards Tomago shipyards" and the amiable crowd smiled some more.
"It must have run aground in the basin" was another theory contributed to explain the non-appearance of Pasha Bulker, leaving port for climes unknown in Asia for repairs.
"Well, there’s five tugs this time, not the usual three. I’d say they’re all tangled and are trying to sort the mess!"
After all, we had to amuse ourselves in the absence of the star attraction, "it," the coal freighter Pasha Bulker whose astonishing arrival had been the most sensational event in decades.
Meanwhile the Newcastle Port Corporation’s dredge, David Allan, chugged by for the umpteenth time, paranoid, it seemed, to ensure the channel hadn’t suddenly developed a threat that might embarrass the Port, and particularly the Pasha B., in some far-fetched mishap.
"Let’s just check the draught one more time" one imagines the Captain thinking.
The first chopper to arrive that morning was the Australian Broadcasting Commission’s sleek silver bird that thundered into Newcastle’s perfect calm July morning from the south.
After a commanding sweep of the harbour it took station above the Eastern Basin where the Pasha Bulker was being manoeuvred from it’s cosy berth near the wheat silos, scene of many a grand launching in Newcastle’s ship-building glory days.
Soon the bright red Seven Network chopper arrived, then two Hunter Valley tour helicopters and, adding to the cacophony, more Sydney TV network whirlybirds, the swarm buzzing around like so many Hexham Grey mosquitos mistaking the harbour for Hexham Swamp.
Shores north and south of Newcastle Harbour were packed with delighted sightseers, both locals and from several hours drive distant. Even the TV choppers had flown 80 aerial miles north from Sydney.
The day was balmy, clear, blue-skied and bright, with a gentle cooling breeze.
Image right: Fort Scratchley fires a four-cannon salute in honour of a common little ship that became so special.
It was simply the most stunningly-perfect Newcastle day for a perfect harbour spectacle.
Busloads of school students filled the northern breakwater to partake a historic juxtaposition: the Pasha Bulker, a rare escapee from coastal peril, sailing by those rusting hulks beneath the rocky barricade on which they walked.
On this most serenely-beautiful of days before this glorious vista of Newcastle’s headland, sand and harbour these kids stood, absorbing the irony of innumerable broken ships around them that became Oyster Bank victims (and, eventually, the harbour’s northern breakwater) and the sleek silent passage of our lady of the sea, the Pasha Bulker, bruised and scarred, cruising seaward mere tens of meters away, having just escaped both sudden death on Newcastle rocks - and lingering decay on the sands of Nobbys Beach.
And past us she went, shiny and clean, humming efficiently, filling the channel with red and cream hugeness, a large yellow bungee strap hanging from bow, two big staples mending her side, all with spectacle and ceremony, at the same time with respect and humility.
Image left: Local NBN Television news team capture the moment of the decade.
People and vehicles simply packed the northern shore from the east-most tip of the northern breakwater back to the passenger ferry terminal.
Every vantage on the south bore - from Horseshoe beach, along The Foreshore, through restaurant precincts to Honeysuckle - unprecedented crowds .. for a mere Panamax coal ship.
No-one onshore would guess the emotions of those onboard the Pasha B. as she swept briskly along the channel toward Nobbys.
First, curious surprise, as the port narrowed past Stockton, upon seeing the people lining the shoreline, by any standard an immense crowd for this tiny city.
Then the Pasha Bulker’s crew would finally have understood what was happening. This was no idly-curious gathering, nor bored city residents seeking novelty.
Thousands of curious yet appreciative eyes followed the injured ship. A consensus wave of relief flowed with the giant stricken lady, a silent surge of well-wishing for her homeward limp.

This was no mob of gawky sightseers, but a giant communal ‘helping hand’ of encouragement, a show of appreciation for men and ships that are still the life blood of this great port and seafaring nation.
Each time one of these magnificent vessels tests the brink of survival, they become suddenly alive, gathering, as a symbol, tributes and attention normally unexpressed towards the convoy floating just off our coast.
Newcastle .. loves ships.
Fort Scratchley’s World War Two cannons - that last shelled in anger sixty-two years ago - fired four salutes during the Pasha’s channel run. This was indeed a special and fun day, yet something more. Novocastrians, by the simple presence of a port, feel empathy and duty towards ships.
We feel pride when they arrive, pride when they leave. We instinctively - though few realise it - feel a loss, too, when they go. Especially to elsewhere in the world when this country, and this 200 year old port, should still be the major maritime nation it once was.
Now Australia is just a quarry, the very thing our teachers warned us in school, decades ago, while other nations gather the lucrative fees for our huge offshore tonnage.
Did you know the "Australian National Line" is a foreign-owned shipping line and world’s third-largest, yet began life as the Australian Coastal Shipping Commission fifty years ago? Of course you didn’t. You’ve forgotten successive Australian governments have pretty-well given away the farm for some peppercorns.
Each time a ship leaves our port, it steals a little of our pride and former glory.

.. is never enough!
The city lit up for a week or two, buzzing with visitors and excitement.
A grand lady of the sea defied humiliation to sit boldly prominent on our favourite beach as though it was her choice, if not duty.
Delightfully without injury (except maybe to the Captain’s pride) and no more than a sharp abrasion and crumpled skin, the Pasha Bulker lurched ashore one weekday morning in a stinging fresh June gale.
Scraping the rocks off Newcastle City she lit up thousands of cell phones around town as the buzz exploded.
Workers privy to the news, and flexibly able, deserted their posts in a dash to the wind-torn, sand-blasted headlands at Newcastle East to witness a once in a lifetime drama: shipwreck on the very doorstep of this pocket seaport.
In the howling cyclonic gale-force winds fascinated onlookers stood, or tried to stand, as blasting plumes of spray, salt, and sand, literally sent the unwary sprawling along the ground. And in sheer disbelief that such a spectacular and unlikely drama could play out on such an otherwise mundane cityscape.
Pictured above, as the ship washed over rocks towards the beach in what witnesses describe as "awesome, spectacular and dramatic" experience. Thereafter, ocean drives were jammed with crowds and traffic for weeks.
Below, the WestPac rescue chopper in the most audacious and heroic airlift of the crew off the wind and wave-swept decks of the stricken (love that word) ship. Of course, in hindsight they were far safer in crew quarters, and the chopper better off back at base, but an overriding concern in the long history of rescuing crews from foundering ships in Newcastle, one never knew what the ailing vessel might do (capsize, break up) and so rescuers’ lives must be risked.
And there for a month the great Panamax carrier sat.
Dominating the cityline and dwarfing Nobbys Beach
pavilion, Pasha Bulker posed for endless photographers, artists, spectators, rounds of visitors from dignitary to emergency worker, salvagers, police, environmental .. well, just all of them!
And as if the swarms of choppers, tugs, launches and
television ENG vans weren’t enough, with a simple tilt of her bridge (so it seemed) she brought the entire city of Newcastle to a crazed traffic-jamming halt. For weeks.
This was a magical shipwreck.
That 76,000 tonnes of streamlined floating steel should
deposit itself so cleanly - though not without a little dramatic flurry - on our most iconic shoreline literally shocked Novocastrians from their daily-drudgery and work stupor.
You see, almost only from the sea does the world truly visit Newcastle.
No-one famous has been here since 1955 when the Queen of England rattled on through waving diffidently from a royally-blue diesel-powered train.
Fabulous media performers might appear briefly on local theatre stages, then vanish so completely it’s not entirely certain they were actually in town, as no fanfare was noted, no screaming fans, press conferences, nor paparazzi - only a tiny over-lit figure purporting to be said celeb. several hundred meters away beyond a vast crowd.
And despite frequent flyer points, Prime Ministers and State Premiers count for little (or less than).
I think you’ll find consensus around town - only the seaways draw amazing foreign visitors. And like Sydney Harbour, the waters off Port Hunter are Newcastle’s communal stage, our public meeting place.
The harbour claims our attention - though most Novocastrians have forgotten why. Few alive recall the great days when this self-sufficient region exported superfluous wealth to the overseas needy.
Unlike Sydney, that has a bridge to light crackers on, our bridge, the Stockton Bridge, is not at Stockton or even the harbour, so it’s not much good for anything except getting to Stockton.
Despite this shortcoming we love Newcastle Harbour, basking in the smartly-dressed foreshore restaurants or refreshing our lives along the watery walkways, and throng delightedly to each great man-made mammoth that floats in to share life with us for a while.
And boy, what fun, what an event, when one such visitor
should get it so wrong.
It became somewhat of a city festival, with attendant free drama and entertainment at otherwise the dullest time of year.
I propose the Mattara Festival include a mock surf boat race at Nobbys Beach, with local boats painted Lauritzen fleet colours, similar to the Todd River regatta.
Pasha Bulker will never move, declared old-timers, based on the farcical attempts to likewise shift the Sygna 34 years earlier from Stockton Beach just north of the city.
Salvagers knew better and confidently laid their plans that astonishingly - to most of us, and to our equally-great relief - saw this shiny new incongruity dragged sideways (of all things!) into the deep during king tide one quiet night - with a fortunate assist from the weather.
She’ll be the talk of the town for the next thirty years.
Novocastrian Rant ~ "Pasha’d-out"
Cruising the promenade is a habit beloved of Novocastrians.
By 1900 Newcastle Beach - posing infrastructure fully developed - was the place to be seen, in top hats and refinery, walking the walk and seen to do so by one’s peers.
Since the Second World War, when cars became affordable to youth, Hunter Street was "the drag" and beach esplanades the cruising scene.
Newcastle’s east-enders reluctantly tolerate rice boys jamming the foreshore and beach drives on Friday nights, or scenic King Edward Park on sunny weekends - as their grandparents similarly scowled at hot rods of the fifties, or lowered EH Holdens of the sixties, and so on.
Ever thankful too, our east-enders, that barbarians from the outer burbs - south of Charlestown, west of New Lambton Heights, or Maitland and the Terrace way - keep generally clear of our quite little city’s beach precincts, except perhaps for urgent business.
It couldn’t last. The peace and quiet, that is.
In fifty years only the second spectacular sea drama to invite itself on our shores, the Pasha Bulker gave the city, and region, a stir of novelty and excitement stranding itself cetacean-like on Newcastle’s most picturesque beach front.
Well, novelty one day, a curse the next.

As if the crowds weren’t intolerable, or the weekend traffic gridlock extending to Hunter Street West.
Even worse, the insane lockdown of Newcastle East by authorities - as if restricting the beach wasn’t already too much. The community of Parnell Place call it "Gaza Strip" - their homes on the wrong side of police checkpoints.
One resident - waiting to get a smashed headlight repaired - is directed curbside for a defect notice every time he leaves or returns home, and must endure the painful confrontation with each shift’s new cop.
But the total exclusion zone encompassing the beach and breakwater past Nobbys Lighthouse is anal authoritarianism.

Newcastle is a city of barricades.
Fort Scratchley has been a DMZ for years - our prize tourist attraction and delightful viewpoint of the coastline, the hill to the right in our banner image - prohibited to all Novocastrians and visitors due to no more than chronic inaction.
One of the city’s finest architectural works, years vacant ex-Newcastle Post Office, stands barricaded in the picturesque heart of commerce, rendering what ought be a tourist showcase little more than a symbol of decay.
These damn rent-a-fences are everywhere. One imagines fence lobbyists jamming the corridors of city hall.
When Sygna came ashore, in those recently-modern times , the sightseers mingled with salvage workers without incident, or great interest from authorities - unlike the draconian intolerant nonsense imposing itself at Nobbys around the Pushy Balker.
Newcastle has, in fact, gone a little hysterical - and not from any press beat up.
The boys with badges brandish their toys with adrenaline and gusto, delighted in an emergency not drawing them to an ugly domestic or some such no-win crime scene. Aroused too are the weekend cowboys, with choppers and trucks with sirens.
Meanwhile the (stoic, frequently heroic) guys and gals in them love-hate orange overalls get to block of some streets and wield chainsaws, with half the city’s trees minus a branch and general pandemonium in suburbs built in creek beds.
Ma and Pa are fascinated by a break in the tedium; mum and dad apprehensively recall the ‘89 quake; the young have never imagined such drama.
Happy to see an end to the Polka Dotta? Not really, just the hullabaloo I guess.
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